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Antiparos Village

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This is a small, charming Greek village. antiparos_bykart.jpg (27551 bytes)Most of the island’s 900 permanent residents live here. In the summer this number is multiplied, but even trough a lot of tourists come here, the village retains its feel of peace and quiet. The centre lies a few hundred meters from the port, about half way between the port in east and Sunset Beach in the west. This is where, around 1440, a Venetian fortified town was built. Around this the village of Antiparos has grown bigger and bigger, until it today reaches the port. If you follow the main street up from the port towards the fortifications, you pass trough a typical Cycladic street, with shops, bars and houses with lovely little gardens. Just after half way, you have the school and the pre-school on your right. The playground is used in the summer by Greek children and visitors alike. A little further and you have Tavern 5F on your right and the post office on your left. After that the road swings to the left and you will find a number of taverns and small cafes.

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The main street seen from the port.

Continue, and you will get to the main square. In the centre is a huge Eucalyptus tree. The whole square is covered in tables and chairs. In the daytime it actually looks a bit strange, lots of tables and chairs and only a few Greek men who are solving the world problems over a class of ouzo + the odd tourist. But come again at night. Then the square is seething with life. You may even have a problem finding a place to sit.

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Main square in daytime.

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Antiparos main square at about halt past midnight!

These 2 pictures were taken from the same angle. As you can see, there are lots of people here at night. Both adults and children sit here until the early hours of the morning.

This is typical of the whole village. In the middle of day you can wander up and down the main street meeting almost nobody, but in the evening the village really comes alive. Even so it is less lively than many other Cyclades villages. In the evening everybody, tourists and Greeks, gather in the street. They wander up and down, in and out of the small shops or sit down at one of the many taverns and cafes. It’s especially nice on Saturdays and Sundays when the Greek put on their finery and go out in family groups. Notice also all the old people sitting in front of their houses. They do this every night during the season. Antiparos is a good example of something typically Greek. Everyone takes part, from the youngest baby to the oldest pensioner, in the life of the village. The whole family together.

Greek women often sit in front of the house with their needlework, looking after the children at the same time. Like all people on Antiparos, they are smiling and friendly. They smile even more if you greet them with the most common Greek phrases. I really recommend trying to learn a bit of Greek.

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There are many small, intimate cafes like this on Antiparos.

Antiparos has a couple of personalities you probably will notice when you are on the islands. First of all there is Pavlos. He owns and runs a hotel and not to forget a restaurant called Galini. This he runs with great personal style. The restaurant is very popular and is always full. Well worth a visit. Here you get real Greek food. Pavlos goes around among the guests, making sure everyone is happy. He is very proud of the fact he is mentioned in several editions of the Swedish travel magazine Vagabond (he has copies on the wall in the reception).

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Pavlos in typical pose.

And then there is Georgos, the owner of Tavern 5F. This is opposite the post office. If you eat here once, you can be sure that the owner shouts a loud "HELLO" at you the next time you pass. We recommend his Gyros. It is the best in Antiparos! Ask for "Gyros on plate" and you get a dish with a lot of fat but exceptionally tasty, largely because of the lovely tzatsiki you get served with it. The meat is also very tasty here. Recommended is also the Greek salad.

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Georgios and the undersigned in May 98.

 

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© Jan Bergtun, 19 February 1998 Updated, 09.24.2011
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